"Are there more resident bald eagles on the island or
resident gays?" My lesbian wife, the
always-sunny Mary B., and I are 22 miles away from mainland USA on a chunk of
land known as Catalina Island.
True to
lesbian cliché, we met only months ago in the GayTravel Guru finals, and now we
consider ourselves wed, making this island adventure our honeymoon of
sorts. We are on a tour of the vast,
rugged interior with two gay residents who work for the organization that
controls 88 percent of the land here, the Catalina Island Conservancy.
There is an
awkward pause, and then laughs all around.
"Definitely gays," exclaims Shaun, the knowledgeable biologist tasked
with removing invasive plant species on the island.
It’s a fair
question. There are a whopping 22 bald eagles living on the island, and there
can’t be too many gays on an island that is only 55 miles around.
"I
don't think many gay people realize that other gays come to the island often.
It is gay-friendly, relaxed and comfortable," Shaun elaborates after the
laughs simmer down. Catalina Island
isn’t exactly the first place that comes to mind as a gay destination, but this
unassuming vibe this is one of Catalina’s best traits. It’s a mixed crowd, allowing you to mold your
experience on the Island.
ISLAND
Catalina
Island was originally developed by the Banning Brothers during the Gay
Nineties, a period of prosperity in the late 19th century that brought
the newly moneyed set to the island in droves, ready to party politely in their
modest, fully-clothed bathing gear.
As
Hollywood developed, so did interest in Catalina. It quickly became a glamorous getaway for the
Hollywood set, and its appeal was accelerated after chewing gum czar William
Wrigley bought the Island in 1919. He
quickly began to develop, bringing over his Chicago Cubs for spring training
until the 1950s. Famous guests included
Johnny "Tarzan" Weissmueller, Mickey Rooney, sexy screen sirens and starlets,
and four U.S. presidents: Calvin Coolidge, Herbert Hoover, Ronald Reagan, and
Richard Nixon.
Posthumously
outed, Rock Hudson, the Ricky Martin of his era, was famous for sailing over
for weekend getaways. Catalina’s historical tapestry has golden gay threads
woven throughout, and the feeling permeates your stay on the island.
Today, the
glamour has faded somewhat, only to be replaced with a fascinating history
lingering and magnifying the romantic aura of the island. This place has a distinct whimsical appeal
that combines with top class amenities and attractions to become a perfect gay
getaway for those in Southern California and beyond.
ADVENTURE
"Bummer," I
think, as the raindrops assaulted my face.
It rains an
average of 11.9 inches a year on Catalina Island, a whopping 34 days of
measurable precipitation yearly. So it
was quite a surprise when the tumultuous clouds rolled over into Descanso
Canyon, bringing with them some serious winds, and instantly eliminating the
last morsels of warmth from my hands.
It also
didn’t help that I’m zooming down a steel wire at speeds nearing 45 miles per
hour.
The Eco Zip
Line is the newest activity on the Island, and it’s pure joy. Despite the perpendicular wind gusts, the
piercing cold drops were refreshing, invigorating, and awesome. It added a wholly unexpected dimension to the
experience of flying down steel cables 300 feet above the Descanso Canyon
floor.
"Yeeeeeeeeeeeee,"
I hear behind me as my head whips around to catch the smash of the stopping
block on the pulley. Mary B. is grinning
like a Halloween pumpkin, with a perfect set of pearly whites. I can’t help but share her enthusiasm as she
enthusiastically hoots "Wow!" It’s a fun
ride, a pleasurable and stress-free adrenaline rush.
Catalina
Island has a growing and well-deserved reputation as an adventure
destination. For those who crave an
escape from the concrete gridlock of Southern California, there is not one
single stoplight on the entire island!
The
numerous outdoor experiences make for a soul rejuvenating weekend escape. In
our two day visit, we explored a botanical garden, avoided rattlesnakes as we
hiked a portion of the 37.2 mile Trans-Catalina Trail, checked out one of three
scenic and remote campgrounds, parasailed high above the ocean and went zip
lining from mountain to sea.
There is
also an incredible Marine Preserve called the Lover’s Cove, calm and ideal for
snorkeling amongst the scintillating orange Garibaldi and spotted
opaleyes. Several extensive wrecks are
accessible for walk-in SCUBA diving on Casino Point, and you can tackle the
challenging trails on mountain bike or by foot. And last but not least,
exploring the island’s perimeter in an ocean kayak is an unparalleled way to
get out onto the legendary crystal-clear waters along the Catalina Coast.
ROMANCE
Catalina
Island has been a romantic’s playground from the beginning of its development
in the late 1890s. Wrigley bought the
island without even visiting, dozens of movies have bestowed romantic allure,
and even the city’s name, Avalon means "beautiful isle of the blest."
The Four
Preps’ 1958 hit song "26 Miles" extolled the virtues of this island of romance,
which is now a perfect soundtrack to the quaint, timeless aesthetic on the
island. Development is strictly limited,
so the architecture remains consistent.
There is a 15-year waiting list for conventional cars on the Island, so
there are individually personalized golf carts all over the island.
Mary B. and
I are getting very cozy on our journey, savoring the tranquility as well as our
mutual enjoyment of each other. This is our honeymoon, after all! We take a
leisurely stroll from Avalon around the point past the stunning, 12-story Art
Deco Casino, and onwards to the tidepools past Descanso Beach. On our way back, we sit on the wooden beach
loungers that are part of the new Descanso Beach – straight out of Miami, we
could easily imagine a group of friends sipping cocktails together in the
attractive cabanas that line the beach.
We sit by
the blazing fire pit at our hotel, the pleasantly updated Pavillion Hotel,
sipping Rusack pinot noir and nibbling on goat cheese. We laugh as we observe
workers carefully placing holiday lights high up the palm trees surrounding the
hotel.
The sun is
setting somewhere beyond the hills, and the clouds in Avalon harbor have turned
a fierce purple. Families are returning
to the hotel, and couples are affectionately chatting, faces close.
Each
without our significant other, we quietly miss them and turn back to the moment
at hand.
