Moments after arriving in Whistler, Canada, I find myself
walking down the main drag in a harness, with straps dangling and my crotch
scrunched up in a tidy triangle. And the boys are staring at me. I hadn’t
noticed before, but more and more gays are revealing themselves with their
stares as my boyfriend Kevin and I walk down Skiers Approach towards the
slopes.
"Who knew
that I would be in a harness so fast," I joke, elbowing Kevin as a few
scattered groups of North Face-clad men looked our way. Kevin rolls his eyes,
marking the official start of my WinterPRIDE!
Earlier in the day, as I bounced along the
spectacular Sea-to-Sky Highway on Pacific Coach Lines, the area’s plentiful
bounty repeatedly crossed my mind. The twists and turns of the newly enlarged
highway hug the mountainside, with shimmering lakes and fir-studded slopes
reaching skyward. Without a doubt one of the Canada’s most memorable drives,
the 70-minute journey is an excellent primer for what waits ahead in Whistler.
The First
Nations peoples in Whistler have a striking moniker for their traditional home:
where mountains, rivers and people meet. I find that to be an apt description
not only of the British Columbia region that I find myself exploring, but also
of the tenor of WinterPRIDE, one of North America’s largest and longest running
ski weeks.
WinterPRIDE
is all about the intersections of nature and people in the gay community,
providing a solid base of parties and events to whet the appetite of even the
most avid circuit partier or event-monger. On top of this base, just like the
fresh powder that falls on the mountains here regularly, the organizers have
layered a multitude of experiences that shake things up and allow gays to meet
in contexts beyond nightlife.
The dual
mountains of Whistler and Blackcomb are the anchors of Whistler Village, the
two omnipresent elders watching over their flock. The Lower Village is home to
the majority of the shops and restaurants, while the Upper Village is mostly
the higher-end resorts and hotels.
The town
itself is small, with a permanent population of only roughly 10,000 hardcore
locals. There is also an army of seasonal workers that come mainly from
Australia and Europe, to man the chairlifts, cash registers and guide positions
for the many activities.
The
Whistler Blackcomb resort spans the largest skiable acreage of any resort on
the continent, so it’s no surprise that WinterPRIDE is a marquee event for the
area, bringing in gay men and women from all over the world to take advantage
of the fabulous terrain. In addition, the breadth of the resort affords
non-boarders an abundance of activities to stoke any passion.
Take me for
example. I love to snowboard, but after a concussion on Whiteface Mountain a
couple of years ago, I have been reluctant to get back at it. So I was pleased
to see a full itinerary that allowed me to experience the full buffet of
wilderness adventures that are available at Whistler Mountain.
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So...getting
back to that harness. We had just arrived in Whistler, and had hastily unpacked
our winter necessities in our warm suite at the Pan Pacific Village Centre. We
had a packed itinerary, with little time to change. And as I hate the cold, I
am always quick to layer it up: Long underwear, jeans, and snowboard pants are
common if I fear the cold.
Fast
forward to Skiers Approach, where my layers have now been bunched up like
chiffon over my midsection. I am taking it in stride, because frankly it
doesn’t matter to me: We are going ZIPLINING! Woo hoo!
Zip lining
always makes me happy, and Whistler’s Ziptrek has one of North America’s
original zip courses. In my humble opinion, it is also one of the best. The
guides are well-spoken and passionate about conversing issues affecting the
area, which is one of the last remaining temperate rainforests on earth.
And there
is nothing quite like zooming along at high speeds, hands-free and spinning,
upside-down and right side up, watching the winter wonderland of babbling
brooks, snow-capped stones and stately pine trees laid out all around! This was
my first wintertime zip, and while my hands were fast frozen, the winter
provides an altogether more sensual connection with the world unfolding around
you on each segment.
I felt this
same sort of sensuality as the week progressed, and not just because it was gay
ski week! The ability for bonding over physical activity in a locale separated
from everyone’s comfort zones really allowed for significant connections among
gay travelers, as well as between nature and the individual.
And of
course, after an active day on the mountain, there were plenty of après-ski
events to whet the whistle and catch up with new friends. Every afternoon from
3-6pm, there are various sponsored après-ski events at the Whistler Conference
Center. There is a comedy night, there are several events focused just on the
ladies, there is a pool party, a drag party, a bear party, downhill ski races,
dog sledding, brewery tours and so much more planned goodness.
The apex of
Whistler’s WinterPRIDE lineup is Saturday night’s Snowball. The party goes on
until the sky lightens, revealing the soft outline of the towering peaks of
Whistler Blackcomb Mountains. The party thins out after the booze stops around
3am, but the remaining crowd is full-tilt.
WinterPRIDE
turns 20 in 2012, and the Snowball has been the centerpiece for the festivities
for quite some time. This year, a robust performance lineup, combined with an
impressive conversion of the Whistler Conference Center into nightclub central,
made the Snowball a full-on hit.
New York’s
DJ Eddie Baez headlined, grinding out his signature tribal-inflected beats and
keeping the crowd moving. Before he jumped on the decks, there were two very
different but energetic performances by Rockstar’s Zayra and Vancouver’s
DESTINEAK. Zayra worked it out in a captain’s outfit and severe knee-high
leather boots with 6-inch heels. She came ready to rock, and the crowd paid
attention.
DESTINEAK
brought a unique flavor as the first performance of the night, mixing vocals,
instruments and tracks into a wonderful livetronica set. Bobby and Christina
are a husband-and-wife musical duo striving to redefine what’s expected in a
live performance, and giving it their all each and every time. I really rocked
out as Christina sang their destined-for-radio single "Calling My Name,"
because when someone drops their entire being in a performance it’s hard not to
get into it!
As we
wandered out in a daze, the morning was settling in and the WinterPRIDE week
was coming to a close. Staggering to bed, it was going to be a sleep-in kind of
morning – even if a fluffy layer of powder was glistening, beckoning for some
fresh tracks.