It is an established cliché that each generation yearns for the simple times of those who came before, but who can be blamed for missing the world of Elizabeth Taylor and John Wayne? Movie stars were elegant, golden sunsets were cherished, and personal stories were provocatively private – not pimped for social media fame. In a click-bait world of insta-celebs and algorithmic lives, it is little wonder we lament the loss of the fabled glamor and joie de vivre of yore. Seemingly gone are the days of handwritten thank you notes, joy rides along the coast, and dressing for dinner (or even sitting at a table). Such pleasures are simply nostalgia now, haunting classic films and the dreams of those old enough to remember an age of please and thank you.
Or are they?
On the southern border of Mexico, hugged by two idyllic bays off the Pacific Ocean, the small city of Acapulco maintains the glittering mystique of a bygone era. It is to here that the early stars fled, putting the former fishing village on the map as Mexico’s original Hollywood escape, and Acapulco has neither forgotten nor released the elegant ghosts of that past. We recently slipped away to this forgotten paradise that offers a glimpse back into the dreamy days of legendary stars, and following are the highlights we recommend for a fantasy refresh of your own.
For the most authentic Old Hollywood jetsetter experience, Las Brisas Acapulco is the only choice. Despite its extensive grounds – set among throngs of hibiscus plants that provide live décor for your room and pool daily – the personalized service and carefully situated private casitas exude a sense of delicious exclusivity more evocative of a hidden enclave than the expansive first class resort it is. When you’re not lounging by your private pool you will be chauffeured about in the resort’s signature jeeps, all named after celebrities who have used them through the decades: from Liz Taylor and John F. Kennedy to Mel Gibson and Madonna. While the resort has been renovated and kept modern over time, it maintains the unadulterated charm of the past through quaint details: like the ubiquitous pale pink and white palette (uniforms, furniture, grout and beyond!); plantation shutters; and familial grace of a staff who balance first class service with the gentility of your favourite neighbour. Serenity is the hallmark of Las Brisas, but don’t laze away your entire vacation in its sweet lullaby – there’s more to soak in than the sun on your chaise.
Natural beauty is timeless, and Acapulco is overflowing with it. Vivid colour abounds, draping every surface – land, water, and sky – with #nofilter otherworldliness that will leave you constantly questioning your eyes. Take a boat to La Roqueta Island and its beaches, where you will spend the day kayaking, paddle boarding, or just floating on impossibly green waters teeming with tropical fish, easily encountered by snorkeling in the island’s secluded coves. Rest on the beaches, chuckle at the curious names painted on wooden boats (Titanic II), and marvel at the surrounding environment straight out of an overly imaginative child’s colouring book.
When you have had your fill of fun in the sun, head back toward Acapulco and pause by El Mirador Hotel before docking. Here, the world-famous La Quebrada cliff divers perform twice daily, leaping from cliffs up to 130 feet high into the shallow gulch below. In a tradition that goes back nearly a century, most of the athletes hail from the same famed family who have trained generations of new divers to first scale the cliffs, then leap artfully into the gulch with a precise timing that determines the difference between 12 feet and 6 feet of water, depending on the waves. It’s a spectacle of grace, strength, skill and courage, with a proud legacy that has led the divers to become an unofficial symbol of the city, adorning everything from postcards to street signs.
Before calling it a day, pick up a few souvenirs in town. Most shops contain the same general goods – silver jewelry, textiles, knickknacks – but selection does vary, so move on if you don’t find exactly what you’re looking for in one shop. Employees can be direct and relentless; the haggling game is extreme in Acapulco. Never, ever take the first price you’re offered, and know ahead of time that the real price is often half, sometimes as little as one-third, the price you’re originally named. Do take any free shots of tequila you’re offered, and enjoy the adventure!
After a good night’s sleep, take a cultural day and head first to the Fort of San Diego, originally built by the Spanish in the 17th Century, and rebuilt in its current form amid the 18th Century. Used through the late 19th Century, the fort now houses a military museum open to the public Tuesday to Sunday (free on Sunday). Learn about the strong influence of the Philippines in Mexican commercial and religious history; view countless artifacts from military, nautical, religious and home life; and come to understand the importance of Acapulco’s port in the history of intercontinental commerce. Before leaving, climb the ramp in the fort’s inner courtyard for colourful city views from the roof.
Grab lunch in town, then head to the site of one of Acapulco’s most important cultural treasures, the murals of Diego Rivera, which adorn the former home of his friend, Dolores Olmeda, who offered the space to him during his recovery from cancer. In thanks for Olmeda’s generosity, Rivera decorated the home with his own original art just before his death in the 1950s, and impressive examples can be seen from the street. The colourful, intricate murals of shell and tile mosaic work are sprawling – running the length of the property. The home is currently being converted into a Diego Rivera museum after being recently purchased from Olmeda’s son, and soon to be publicly accessible are the rest of the home’s Rivera works, as well as his final studio.
Head back to Las Brisas before the sun drops to experience the most inspiring sunset of your life at the resort’s Sunset Bar. Sip a glass of wine high above Acapulco Bay and watch as the sun scorches the sky in fiery red and orange before cloaking you in early evening shades of purple and blue. If you’re feeling adventurous, this is the night to revel in Acapulco’s famous after-dark scene. The city has no shortage of nightlife, but you’ll have to head out late if you’re going to see the best of it, as most hot spots don’t get going until after midnight. If you’re not feeling so feisty, stay in and hang out by your private pool – it lights up – and you will appreciate the nighttime view of the glittering mountains across the bay.
Before heading home, take a short trip to Tres Palos Lagoon, not far from downtown Acapulco. A haven for all manner of birds, this massive mangrove lagoon was once used as the setting for Tarzan films; the terrain appears as unspoiled as ever. Hire a small boat to provide a tour of the lagoon and weave through mysterious mangrove tunnels, spotting countless birds and maybe even a crocodile. Locals say the mud from the lagoon makes skin softer and, depending on your boat captain, you may have the opportunity to try it yourself. While you should wear mosquito repellant everywhere in Acapulco, it is especially wise to apply plenty before heading to the lagoon, where mosquitos are abundant and not shy.
Tres Palos Lagoon is a humble space set apart from the commotion of the city and the radiance of the resorts. Floating in the quiet lagoon is like peeking behind the proverbial curtain and discovering a secret. There’s nothing momentous happening here, but the peaceful energy and calm beauty on full display are at the corazón of all of Acapulco’s charm. The lagoon appears untainted by the passing of time, in the same way Acapulco has evolved with the decades without sacrificing its simple, stunning grace. It is this unaffected atmosphere and honest purity that give Acapulco the sandman power that draws you into its dream and comforts you with enchanting echoes of a time gone by.
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Writer
Brandon Schultz
Locale
Acapulco
Topic
Travel
Photo Gallery
Acapulco |
Travel
