An initial disappointment for the Glenbow
Museum has resulted in a rewarding opportunity for those film and costume buffs
among us.
Calgary has received
the exclusive Canadian showing for the CUT! Costume and the Cinema
exhibit coming all the way from the esteemed costume house Cosprop Ltd. of
London, England. This marks the fourth stop for the show, which showcases 43
costumes from 25 different movies, representing roughly 500 years of ‘high
fashion’.
"We had a slot to fill
when the Terra Cotta Soldiers exhibit was cancelled," explained Megan Bailey,
communications specialist for the Glenbow Musem. "This is the first time [this
exhibit] has been in Canada; after this it returns to the States."
"And it’s only here for
five weeks," she continues, so come and see it while you can.
CUT! has no future dates lined up in the country, "And
I don’t think there will be," says co-curator of the exhibit, Nancy Lawson.
While the Massachusetts-born, now Manhattan resident says it would be lovely to
line up a showing in the East, the western locale which she finds herself in
now seems to suit the fashion exhibit just fine.
"Calgary is a nice
city; it’s cosmopolitan, small, but quite fancy."
CUT! showcases the "crème-de-la-crème" of costuming in
period films. The exhibit informs viewers that only the most affluent film
production companies can afford to have several costumes made from scratch. The
exhibit aims to showcase the craftsmanship and skill that goes into pieces we
only see for mere flashes on film.
"These are some of the
best of the best costumes that you’ll find anywhere," Lawson states. "This is
the highest level of costume making you’ll see."
Show features include
gowns worn by Keira Knightley in The Dutchess; Johnny Depp’s Captain
Jack Sparrow costume from Pirates of the Caribbean; Health Ledger’s Casanova
red frock coat and cream shirt with lace jabot and cuffs; the cotton-muslin
dress worn by Kait Winslet in 1995’s Sense and Sensibility, meant to
illustrate her fall from a lady of fashion to gentile; the suits that mark the
heroic duo Sherlock Holmes and Watson, as portrayed by Robert Downey Jr. and
Jude Law; and my personal favourite, the Renaissance-period court gown of rich,
emerald velvet and golden brocaded bodice, sleeves and underskirt, worn by
Angelica Houston as the Baroness Rodmilla de Ghent in 1998’s Ever After.
When asked to point out
her favourite piece Lawson said she will change her selection every time, but
lead me to a gown created to reflect the Deco Period in which it would
have been worn. The silk, gold and black evening dress, designed by Alexandra
Byrne, was dawned by actress Radha Mitchell, playing Mary Ansell Barrie, the
wife of Sir James Matthew Barrie, in the film Finding Neverland (2004), receiving nominations for the Academy
Award and British Academy of Film and Television Arts Award for costume design.
"It was during this
period that art started to inform fashion; artists like Cocteau and Salvador
Dali started influencing designers," Lawson explains. "This is a really good
representation on art deco, and a good example of the beadsmanship that was
important in this period."
Nearly all of the
designers, or craftsmen, employed at Cosprop Ltd. hail from Great Britain and
its isles, and nearly all of the costumes were worn in pieces that take place
there. The Cosprop team is what one could coyly call ‘close-knit’.
"In general it’s
usually one person that does the entire piece," Lawson says. "It’s like your
baby; your piece of art."
The exhibit explains
that prior to beginning work on a piece, the designer – selected to design for
the period in which they exemplify particular forte – will read the film script
and envisage the character on which their garment will appear: their style, attitude
and station in life.
Next they will
routinely make a visit to the Cosprop house, home to roughly a quarter-million
costumes and a museum featuring original period pieces, for additional
inspiration and template. The museum only lends out its original pieces to film
stars on extremely rare occasion, in order to protect their material fragility.
Though the company may
use sewing machines, as much of the work as is possible is done by hand and in
the method it would have been done in the period for which it is made to
represent. This means finishing work and closures are implemented true to life;
hooks and eyes or snaps in place of zippers.
Once actresses are
strapped into their period-true corsets, wiry crinoline, pannier hoops,
bustles, tights and stiffened petticoats, it becomes very uncomfortable to
slouch or cross one’s legs. But such is the intention – to transpose the modern
day actor into yester-century’s heroine, hero, ingénue or rogue.
"When actors put on
those clothes, that is when the character comes alive," Lawson states.
The exhibit also
informs the visitor of the art of distressing clothes; that is, making them
appear as dirty or worn as is necessary to be believable en scene. Often
numerous copies of the same costume need be made in cases where the original is
sure to be destroyed during shooting.
For those interested,
there are special event dates for this exhibit listed at the end of this
article.
An initial disappointment for the Glenbow
Museum has resulted in a rewarding opportunity for those film and costume buffs
among us.
Calgary has received
the exclusive Canadian showing for the CUT! Costume and the Cinema
exhibit coming all the way from the esteemed costume house Cosprop Ltd. of
London, England. This marks the fourth stop for the show, which showcases 43
costumes from 25 different movies, representing roughly 500 years of ‘high
fashion’.
"We had a slot to fill
when the Terra Cotta Soldiers exhibit was cancelled," explained Megan Bailey,
communications specialist for the Glenbow Musem. "This is the first time [this
exhibit] has been in Canada; after this it returns to the States."
"And it’s only here for
five weeks," she continues, so come and see it while you can.
CUT! has no future dates lined up in the country, "And
I don’t think there will be," says co-curator of the exhibit, Nancy Lawson.
While the Massachusetts-born, now Manhattan resident says it would be lovely to
line up a showing in the East, the western locale which she finds herself in
now seems to suit the fashion exhibit just fine.
"Calgary is a nice
city; it’s cosmopolitan, small, but quite fancy."
CUT! showcases the "crème-de-la-crème" of costuming in
period films. The exhibit informs viewers that only the most affluent film
production companies can afford to have several costumes made from scratch. The
exhibit aims to showcase the craftsmanship and skill that goes into pieces we
only see for mere flashes on film.
"These are some of the
best of the best costumes that you’ll find anywhere," Lawson states. "This is
the highest level of costume making you’ll see."
Show features include
gowns worn by Keira Knightley in The Dutchess; Johnny Depp’s Captain
Jack Sparrow costume from Pirates of the Caribbean; Health Ledger’s Casanova
red frock coat and cream shirt with lace jabot and cuffs; the cotton-muslin
dress worn by Kait Winslet in 1995’s Sense and Sensibility, meant to
illustrate her fall from a lady of fashion to gentile; the suits that mark the
heroic duo Sherlock Holmes and Watson, as portrayed by Robert Downey Jr. and
Jude Law; and my personal favourite, the Renaissance-period court gown of rich,
emerald velvet and golden brocaded bodice, sleeves and underskirt, worn by
Angelica Houston as the Baroness Rodmilla de Ghent in 1998’s Ever After.
When asked to point out
her favourite piece Lawson said she will change her selection every time, but
lead me to a gown created to reflect the Deco Period in which it would
have been worn. The silk, gold and black evening dress, designed by Alexandra
Byrne, was dawned by actress Radha Mitchell, playing Mary Ansell Barrie, the
wife of Sir James Matthew Barrie, in the film Finding Neverland (2004), receiving nominations for the Academy
Award and British Academy of Film and Television Arts Award for costume design.
"It was during this
period that art started to inform fashion; artists like Cocteau and Salvador
Dali started influencing designers," Lawson explains. "This is a really good
representation on art deco, and a good example of the beadsmanship that was
important in this period."
Nearly all of the
designers, or craftsmen, employed at Cosprop Ltd. hail from Great Britain and
its isles, and nearly all of the costumes were worn in pieces that take place
there. The Cosprop team is what one could coyly call ‘close-knit’.
"In general it’s
usually one person that does the entire piece," Lawson says. "It’s like your
baby; your piece of art."
The exhibit explains
that prior to beginning work on a piece, the designer – selected to design for
the period in which they exemplify particular forte – will read the film script
and envisage the character on which their garment will appear: their style, attitude
and station in life.
Next they will
routinely make a visit to the Cosprop house, home to roughly a quarter-million
costumes and a museum featuring original period pieces, for additional
inspiration and template. The museum only lends out its original pieces to film
stars on extremely rare occasion, in order to protect their material fragility.
Though the company may
use sewing machines, as much of the work as is possible is done by hand and in
the method it would have been done in the period for which it is made to
represent. This means finishing work and closures are implemented true to life;
hooks and eyes or snaps in place of zippers.
Once actresses are
strapped into their period-true corsets, wiry crinoline, pannier hoops,
bustles, tights and stiffened petticoats, it becomes very uncomfortable to
slouch or cross one’s legs. But such is the intention – to transpose the modern
day actor into yester-century’s heroine, hero, ingénue or rogue.
"When actors put on
those clothes, that is when the character comes alive," Lawson states.
The exhibit also
informs the visitor of the art of distressing clothes; that is, making them
appear as dirty or worn as is necessary to be believable en scene. Often
numerous copies of the same costume need be made in cases where the original is
sure to be destroyed during shooting.
For those interested,
there are special event dates for this exhibit listed at the end of this
article.
Glenbow Museum
130 - 9th Avenue SE, Calgary
(403) 268-4100
http://www.glenbow.org
Cut! Costumes and the Cinema
August 20th - September 28th
Behind the Scenes Tour - Thurs, Sept 8th
Celebrity Worship Talk - Thurs, Sept 22nd
Behind the Curtain Fashion Bash - Sat, Sept 24th